While most watch brands are still mining the 1970s and 1980s for revival ideas, Oris has skipped ahead to the 1990s for its Oris 2022 Hölstein Edition.
The Oris Hölstein Edition 2022 brings back the Oris Full Steel Worldtimer, originally launched in 1998, using what was then a “groundbreaking movement” that had debuted a year earlier.
The Calibre 690 Worldtimer was the first in the world to feature plus and minus pushers allowing local time to be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour increments. The date would also adjust accordingly if the hours moved past midnight. Home time was displayed on a sub dial at the three o’clock position.
Now the Full Steel Worldtimer is being revived as the Oris 2022 Hölstein Edition on the brand’s 118th anniversary. The edition, powered by newly reproduced Calibre 690, is housed in a faithful 36.5mm stainless steel case with a three-link bracelet. So why this model?
“The Full Steel Worldtimer was always one of my favourite watches, long before I worked at Oris, and I think it’s a much underrated design,” says Oris co-CEO Rolf Studer. “I also love the movement – a watchmaking landmark. Until Calibre 110 in 2014, Calibre 690 was our most complicated movement, which is a special legacy. In the true Oris sense, it’s functional, useful, beautiful and only mechanical.”
“And there’s something about the Full Steel that captures the experimental spirit of 1990s designs. Think of the Lamborghini Diablo and it just makes you smile. The Full Steel is the same. And the 1990s was a much freer time than today. We weren’t so connected and we had much more reasonable expectations of each other, work and how we build societies.”